Dani’s Purse
Dani’s Purse is a cute little purse with a flat oval bottom, a crocheted button and shoulder strap. It is cute, quick, and easy to make. This purse was designed for the little granddaughter of a dear friend. It is perfect for a child, or for someone who likes a small purse.
Dani’s Purse
You can find ad-free versions at Ravelry and Lovecrafts.
Crochet: bags, baskets, cozies
Sizes: 11cm (4.5″) x 13cm (5″) x 4cm (1 1/2″)
Skill Level: Easy
US Terminology
Resources: Abbreviations Chart, Stitch Chart
Gauge:16 sts x 16 rows = 10cm (4″) with 5.00 (US H8) hook.
Hooks: 5.00mm (US H8)
Yarn: Any worsted weight #4 is fine.
Main Colour: Red Heart Super Saver (#4 medium): Denim Blue – Amount: m/ y/ 50g/ oz
Contrast Colour 1: Red Heart Super Saver (#4 medium): White – Amount: m/ y/ 25g/ oz
Contrast Colour 2: Red Heart Super Saver (#4 medium): Warm Brown – Amount: m/ y/ 20g/ oz
Other Items Needed:
- scissors
- tapestry needle
- stitch marker
Notes:
If you want to use a ready made button it should be approximately 4cm (1 1/2″) x 1.5cm (1/2″).
Stitches used in this pattern: ch, sl st, sc, sc tbl, sc2tog (aka dec), 3-ch picot
Let’s get started…
Bottom:
Using main colour: ch 16
Rnd 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 13 ch, 3 sc in last ch.
Now working the other side of the base chain:
sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in last ch. Do not join, we will be working in
continuous rounds. [32]
Rnd 2: sc, place marker (this is your new starting point), sc in next 13 sts, *2 sc in next st,
2 sc, 2 sc in next st* (This is one side of your purse.), sc in next 14 sts,
repeat * to * to start the other side of the purse. [36]
We will be moving the marker as we work to keep things aligned.
Rnd 3: sc, move marker, sc in remaining 35 sts [36]
Sides:
Rnd 4: sc tbl, move marker, sc tbl in next 12 sts, *2 sc tbl in next st, 2 sc tbl, 2 sc tbl
in next st*, sc tbl in next 14 sts, repeat from * to *, sc tbl
* to * creates the curved sides on the purse. [40]
Rnd 5: sc, move marker, sc around [40]
Rnds 6 – 18: repeat rnd 5 [40]
You should now be at the center of one of the sides. If not, sc in each st
until you reach the center of the nearest side. Move your stitch marker
to the last st you made for rnd 18.
Flap:
Row 1: sc in next 19 sts, ch 1, turn
The stitch marked from the last rnd is your first sc. [20]
Row 2: sc2tog, 16 sc, sc2tog, ch 1.turn [18]
Rows 3 – 6: sc across, ch 1, turn [18]
Rows 7 – 9: sc, sc2tog, sc to last 3 sts, sc2tog, sc, ch 1, turn [12 sts at end of row 9]
Row 10: sc, sc2tog, 2 sc, ch 4, sk 2 sc, 2 sc, sc2tog, sc, ch 1, turn [8 sc/4 ch]
Row 11: sc, sc2tog, sc, 5 sc in ch sp, sc, sc2tog, sc, ch 1, turn [11]
To make the 3-ch picot in the next row: ch 3, insert the hook into the 3rd ch from the hook, y/o and draw through both the ch st and the loop on your hook.
Row 12: sc, sc2tog, 2 sc, (sc, 3-ch picot, sc) in next st, 2 sc, sc2tog, sc,
fasten off and weave in ends. [10 sc/1 picot]
Trim:
With RS facing, join contrast colour 1 to the first unworked stitch before the flap.
Do not ch 1. Do not work in that stitch.
Row 1: Begin working 12 sc evenly up to the first corner point, 2 sc in corner point,
4 sc to picot, 4 sc in the center of the picot, 4 sc to the next corner point,
2 sc in corner point, 12 sc evenly to the end of the flap, sl st into the next
unworked stitch of the purse. Fasten off and weave in ends. [40]
Shoulder Strap:
This can be done 3 ways. Choose the one you like the best.
Type 1:
I find this is the nicest one.
Using contrast colour 1 and contrast colour 2: cut 4 strands of each colour in lengths that are double the length you want the shoulder strap to be. You can always cut it if it is too long, but you can’t add to it. So measure carefully
Tie the strands together at one end and divide the strands into 2 sections.
Tip: If you tie it and leave a loop, you will be able to hook it over something as you work. This makes it much easier to twist your rope tightly.
Twist each strand tightly clockwise, while twisting the two sections together counterclockwise. Make sure to keep adjusting the tension accordingly or your rope will be too lose and will not stay together.
Carefully tie off the other end so the rope doesn’t unravel. Tighten the knits at each end to secure. Trim fringe as desired, being careful not to cut too close to the knot.
Type 2:
Using contrast colour 1 and contrast colour 2: cut 9 strands of each colour in lengths that are 4 to 5 times the length you need for your shoulder strap. You can cut it later if it is too long, but you can’t add to it. Measure carefully.
Tie the strands together at one end and divide them into 3 sections.
Braid the strands until you reach the desired length of your shoulder strap. Make sure to keep the tension the same throughout the entire braid.
Tie the end of the braid to secure it. Trim the fringe as desired, being careful not to trim too close to the knot.
Type 3:
Using contrast colour 1 and contrast colour 2: chain the number of ch you need to reach
the desired length of your shoulder strap, plus one or 2 ch. The extra ch is because when
you pull the end tight, the extra ch is no longer part of the length.
Button:
Using contrast colour 2:
Rnd 1: 9 sc in mr, sl st join [9]
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around, sl st join
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing and attaching the button to the purse. [18]
Fold the button over (like a taco shell) and use your tapestry needle to sew the 2 sides together to form an oval button. Use your fingers to roll and shape the button.
Finishing:
Shoulder Strap: Using your tapestry needle and the colour of your choice (main colour is best), stitch the ends of each strap on the inside of the purse – one on each side, positioned approximately 1 to 2 sts away from the flap edge.
Button: Using your tapestry needle and the tail from the button, stitch the button to the front of the purse directly beneath where the buttonhole is positioned when the flap is closed.
Enjoy!
Thank you for your interest in my work.
© Lori-Anne Carr, wravenstorm.com/wravenstorm.ca, 2022
